321 DENTON AVENUE NEW HYDE PARK, NY 11040
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- Does Rock Salt Harm Concrete?
- Guaranteed Accurate for Life
- Lolly Column Wraps (Basement Pole Wraps)
- Outdoor Granite
- Repairing Your Black Top Driveway
- Selecting a Diamond Blade
- Techo Bloc
- The Winter Season
- What factors do we consider when purchasing and using saw blades?
- What is efflorescence and how can I remove it?
- Wow!! Product Seminars At Pioneer
- Framing: Metal Versus Wood?
- Sealing & Cleaning Your Pressure Treated Deck
What effect does a common chemical deicer have on concrete surfaces?
It is widely known that deicers containing ammonium nitrate and/or ammonium sulfate will chemically attack concrete. However, chemical deicers such as sodium chloride (rock salt), calcium chloride, urea, potassium chloride, and their combinations do not chemically attack concrete.
These deicers do, however, depress the freezing point of water. This action normally increases the number of freeze/thaw cycles that water goes through, which in turn can increase the potential for concrete scaling.
Each time water in concrete freezes, it expands approximately 9%. The resulting hydraulic pressures can exceed the strength limits of the concrete, causing pitting and/or scaling. The greater the number of freeze/thaw cycles water goes through within concrete, the greater the potential for concrete damage.
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So why is calcium chloride preferred over rock salt?
Calcium chloride pellets are the fastest acting deicer at all temperatures down to -25 ° F. Rock salt provides adequate, economical performance at temperatures at or just below 32° F. As temperatures drop below freezing, rock salts ice-melting performance slows substantially which can cause freeze-induced expansion pressures by increasing the number of freeze/thaw cycles.
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How come certain slabs of concrete react differently to the same amount of rock
salt and freeze thaw cycles?
The strength of concrete and the porosity of concrete are directly related. This means lower strength concrete will absorb more water than higher strength concrete. Lower strength concrete = greater water absorption = more water freezing and expanding in the slab = greater probability to scale.
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Concrete pavers are concrete, how come rock salt does not affect them?
Concrete pavers are made with high strength concrete. Technically to be considered a concrete paver the concrete must achieve 8000 psi by the time it is sold. At 8000 psi the concrete does not absorb much water at all resulting in no water freezing and expanding within the paver, no spalling and no damage.
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So what do we do to prevent scaling (the result of weak concrete and free thaw cycles)
without having to pour 8000 psi concrete?
Nassau County Class "A" mix tests out at approximately 4300 psi and has an adequate amount of air entrainment. Class "A" mix when poured with the correct water ratios and admixtures specifically air entrainment will have minimal water absorption and greater resistance to expansion. The higher strength concrete reduces the water absorption and the air entrainment creates little air pockets within the concrete that acts as cushioning during the slight expansions the concrete may experience.
In addition a penetrating sealer can be applied to concrete after it is poured to seal the concrete without changing the appearance. This will prevent water absorption and expansion when the water freezes and increase resistance to staining.
There are a variety of levels available for different applications, some recommended by the manufactures and others not recommended by anyone. Levels are manufactured from a couple of different materials such as aluminum, mahogany, and urethane with a straight edge available in brass or magnetic edge to aid when working with steel.
Aluminum levels are the most popular levels used by carpenters for a variety of different reasons. During door installations the level is used to set the door-jamb straight and plumb before driving in the final nails. While building a home carpenters always rely on their trusting level during the installation of rafters, floor joists, and headers to make sure the lumber is in just the right place before they nail everything together. If their level is off in the slightest bit nothing will fit properly and their job will be a complete failure.
In the past, the most popular level used among masons were mahogany levels simply because they were inexpensive and thought to never warp. Mahogany levels are treated with different chemicals to keep them from rotting, warping, and twisting out of shape, however they cannot withstand the daily exposure to water, cement and its enemy the trowel.
As the years progressed masons soon realized their trusted old wooden level their father gave them was no longer accurate. Adjusting their level by adding a brass straight edge to the wooden level or by making a mark or scratch in a groove to compensate for the difference was just not working. popular
Finally there is a level to satisfy the demands of the dynamic contractor and is guaranteed accurate for life. Stabila levels can be used for both masonry and carpentry applications. This level consists of a box frame that will not warp or twist, epoxy-locked vials eliminates all adjustments, cleans with simple water wash-up, and even comes with a dead-blow shield designed to be hit with a trowel. Pioneer building materials has these levels on sale this month for the contractors who do not own one or may want another.
LOLLY COLUMN WRAPS (BASEMENT POLE WRAPS)
Basement Pole Wraps are made to install around basement lolly columns to give them a decorative look. The pole wraps come in three different finishes, paint grade fiber board, knotty pine and red oak all with optional crown, base and drink shelf. This inexpensive alternative brings new life to your basement.
Come down to Pioneer and take a look at these new products. We are sure you can incorporate them in several of your projects this year.
Due to popular demand Pioneer has decided to stock outdoor granite treads and flagging. We currently stock 2 colors, salt and pepper (white and black speckle) and peach (peach on white and black speckle) in 6', 7' and 8' treads by 12" wide with one long side bull-nosed and 12" x 24", 18" x 18" and 24" x 24" flagging. We also have access to different colors, sizes and shapes such as balusters within two business days.
REPAIRING YOUR BLACKTOP DRIVEWAY
The sun, the rain, freezing temperatures, gasoline and oil drippings: all of these are enemies to your blacktop driveways. In fact, ultraviolet rays alone can bake out the essential strength and flexibility of asphalt in 3-5 years. A properly prepared and sealed driveway, however, is protected from these enemies. Following is a step-by-step guide to restoring or protecting the original jet black appearance of your driveway:
- Repair Damaged Areas: use a blacktop mix to fill potholes, a pourable crack filler to fill the cracks and an asphalt repair mix for thin sections.
- Prepare the Surface: sweep all surfaces clean of dirt and loose debris. Clean the blacktop area with a driveway cleaner paying close attention to all gas, oil and grease spots. Apply a blacktop primer where necessary to prevent cleaned grease spots from bleeding through.
- Apply Sealer: Using a brush/squeegee spread the sealer evenly in one direction working downhill if possible.
Once properly prepared and seal coated, annual maintenance of a driveway is easy, and it should not need to be seal coated again for up to three years.
For those of you who have questions in reference to applications or quality sealers, Pioneer has put together a nice package that contains it all. Just ask the next time you visit.
The first step to purchasing a diamond blade is to determine what is most important to you; the initial price of the blade or the cost per cut. For jobs that are smaller or require occasional use of the blade, a low priced blade may be preferable. For the bigger jobs or regular use, a higher priced blade will actually be less expensive to use because it will deliver the lowest cost per cut.
After figuring out what grade of diamond blade you are paying for, you want to know what material your cutting and the saw you are using to determine which blade to use. Each component directly affects the cutting speed and life of the blade.
Choosing wet or dry blade may be a matter of user preference or job requirement. For example, when using a power hand tool such as power handsaw, water or a wet blade is not safe due to the electrical power source. On the other hand when using a concrete saw, wet cutting is usually preferred because it cuts deeper when using water as a coolant. On tile and masonry saws, either wet or dry cutting blades can be used. For high speed cut off saws, dry blades are more popular, but wet blades are often used to control dust. Either choice please keep in mind, wet blades must be used with water only; dry blades may be used either dry or wet.
Pioneer Building Materials Corp. has made it a point to offer a wide variety of blades to be available for any saw in your toolbox and job you may be on. We have placed two of our more popular blades on sale. Please take advantage, these prices will only be offered during manufacturer promotions.
Techo Bloc is a manufacturer of concrete paving stones which Pioneer now sells. Techo Bloc manufactures a large variety of tumbled products, a full line of concrete brick veneer that matches their pavers and a concrete stone veneer line to compliment both. This unique combination of products makes Techo Bloc a versatile and powerful line of masonry products to supply and install.
As the winter season approaches Pioneer Building Materials is ready for whatever blows our way. We have a full line of winter deicing materials that are effective in temperatures as low as 32 degrees below zero.
Our current inventory includes trailer load quantities of rock salt, sand salt, calcium chloride pellets, calcium chloride flake, safety melt, urea and other specialized melting agents making our inventory the "hottest" in town. In addition to our extensive inventory of melting agents Pioneer has a large fleet of delivery trucks standing by for the first storm and flexible store hours for those occasional blizzards.
We are currently running early buy specials for those customers who stock winter deicing material. Please contact us immediately if you did not receive our early buy flyer and we will be sure to add you to our mailing list.
WHAT FACTORS DO WE CONSIDER WHEN PURCHASING AND USING SAW BLADES?
Wood cutting blades come basically in two types. The first is a steel blade. These are inexpensive, readily available and when new they make an adequate cut, however they don't last very long, approximately 20 to 60 cuts. These blades can be sharpened but the cost is usually prohibitive when compared to the price of a new blade.
The second type of blade is carbide tipped blade. The carbide tips are extremely hard, providing durability, clean cuts, longevity and the ability to be re-sharpened and re-tipped. The fact that these blades are more expensive initially makes reworking the blade a more viable option. There are various quality levels of carbide blades that further determine life and effectiveness.
Within either category of blades, there are many subcategories relating to size of blade and number of teeth on the blade. Circular saw blades are generally as follows:
- 5"- 6" blades: usually for small hand held (often cord less) saws and for cutting thin materials such as ply wood and paneling.
- 7"- 7-1/4" blades: Standard general-purpose circular saws.
- 8"- 8-1/4" blades: Professional contractor saws.
- 10" blades: small table saws, chop saws, small radial arm saws.
- 12" blades: Larger table saw and chop saws, larger radial arm saws.
Larger sizes for industrial saws are available.
Within all the sizes the number of teeth determine the speed of the cut and the smoothness of the cut. The more teeth on the blade the finer the cut will be. On the blade with fewer teeth the fact that the teeth are substantially larger will make the blade cut faster but leave rougher edges on the cut.
A contractor or homeowner who handles a variety of work may require several blades in their toolbox to ensure maximum blade life.
One mention of safety. Leave the blade set up to cut only about ¼" more than the depth of the wood you are cutting. This will both prolong the life of the blade and minimize the injury in the event of an accident.
WHAT IS EFFLORESCENCE AND HOW CAN I REMOVE IT?
Efflorescence is a crystalline deposit, usually white, that may develop on the surface of the masonry construction shortly after installation.
There are combinations of factors that contribute to the cause of efflorescence.
First there must be soluble salts in the masonry, which in hydrated Portland cement is inevitable due to the chemical reaction between cement or lime and water. This chemical reaction produces calcium hydroxide when brought to the surface by water and combines with carbon dioxide in the air to form calcium carbonate, which then appears as a whitish deposit. This factor we cannot control.
Second, there must be moisture to pick up the soluble salts and carry them to the surface. If the area is exposed to the outside environment then it is safe to say there will be moisture present.
Third, evaporation or hydrostatic pressure must cause the solution to move. As the moisture passes through the masonry it collects the soluble salts bringing them to the surface. The moisture evaporates leaving behind salts or whitish deposit.
Usually efflorescence is more common in the winter when there is a slower rate of evaporation. The moisture stays within the masonry structure longer, collecting the soluble salts. When the moisture finally comes to the surface it carries additional soluble salts resulting in greater whitish deposits.
Now we know what efflorescence is and all masonry has the potential to produce it, what can we do about it?
The design and construction of weather-resistant masonry is key to eliminating recurrent efflorescence. Limit the entry of water and provide for quick exit by giving proper attention to design details such as water stops, flashing, weep holes and copings.
Maintain clean cavities and unobstructed weep holes during the construction of cavity walls.
Waterproof the mortar by purchasing water resistant mortar or add a waterproofing admixture on the job.
In addition to eliminating efflorescence, waterproofing the masonry can eliminate potential stains from bleeding through the masonry, particularly stone. For example, limestone can experience alkali staining. The mechanics of alkali stain are similar to those of efflorescence, but the chemistry is different. Moisture picks up alkali, usually from cement products. It moves through the limestone from absorption to an evaporation at the surface, where the moisture escapes as vapor, leaving organic matter and alkali salts (brown stains) on and under the surface. Waterproofing the mortar or cement will eliminate moisture from moving through the cement preventing the alkali stains from surfacing.
For additional information on this subject please inquire.
WOW!! PRODUCT SEMINARS AT PIONEER
Pioneer Building Materials Corp. has decided to provide seminars on the various products we supply. The intent of these seminars is to keep you, the customer informed on current product lines, application methods, answer any technical questions you may have and to give each manufacturer an opportunity to get feedback from the installers.
We held our first seminar on Monday evening, the 26th of September for Uni-lock interlocking concrete pavers. Our brick showroom was quickly converted into a classroom, a screen for the slide projector was erected and Uni-lock's salesman and technical advisor entertained approximately 15 contractors for 2 hrs. On November 21st at 6:00 pm we will be holding our second seminar on Miracote Protective Surfacing. Miracote is a polymerized, cementitious system that forms a durable, slip resistant surface over just about any clean, stable substrate, including wood, masonry, stucco, asphalt, and steel. It withstands the effects of standing water, wind-driven rain, freeze-thaw cycles and heavy traffic. With miracote:
You get a durable, easy-to clean surface that resists chipping, staining and chemicals
You choose from twelve attractive colors (plus gray and white)
You can create slip resistant surfaces that meet ADA requirements for ramps and walkways.
Provides an alternative to complete concrete replacement.
For additional information please see the insert included inside.
Pioneer is excited about our product seminars and look forward to everyone benefiting from them. Hope you can join us.
You are looking to finish your basement. Traditionally that meant 2 x 4 wood construction, sheetrock or paneling and indoor outdoor carpet on the floor. Functional, yes but not very attractive and after a short few years often prone to moisture causing breakdown of insulation through sagging and eventually dry rot of wood.
What about alternatives? Consider a good waterproofing job before construction begins and think about using metal framing instead of wood studs. Most homeowners and many contractors have little or no experience using metal studs. There are some definite benefits to giving it a try.
Price: In an era where lumber prices have increased in double digit increments, metal prices have been very stable and in some circumstances have actually come down in price. The price per foot for metal
2 x 4 is approximately half the price of wood studs.
Resistance to moisture conditions: Water or moisture is definitely not a problem. Neither are termites, carpenter ants or the like.
Speed of installation: With a little practice an installer can move at a much greater speed with a pair if metal snips and a screw gun in hand. Once the sheetrock is installed you have a very stable wall.
Precut slots: Placed in studs for ease of electrical wiring.
Metal is stable: No warping or twisting to worry about. Straight true walls are easy.
Innovations: Such as flexible track for curves and arches make designs easy.
Pioneer Building Materials can supply all your building needs. Most items are in stock and special orders are never a problem. The newest item is the curved track, 3-5/8 only in 10 ft. length. Stop down and see this timesaving innovation.
SEALING & CLEANING YOUR PRESSURE TREATED DECK
Here's the problem. Three years ago you replaced that old, worn out, Redwood deck with a state of the art CCA pressure treated deck your work is done, right? Hardly!! Granted you received a forty-year warranty with your deck purchase. This warranty states that for a period of forty years your lumber purchase will remain structurally sound. It makes no such claims about surface texture or appearance.
The maintenance of your pressure treated deck is really quite simple. Spending a couple of hours at the beginning of each season will insure years of comfortable and beautiful deck living. Let's break the maintenance down into a couple of areas.
I. Remember the sun is the enemy of lumber. The constant moisture and drying cycle can wreak havoc on the surface of your deck. The bad news is that if you allow the deck surface to check or splinter, there is really no way to reverse the damage. The good news is that prevention of surface degradation is actually simple and not very expensive. The annual application of a good quality sealer with UV protection at the beginning of the season will keep your deck looking like new for many years (roller or sprayer can apply these sealers). Good quality UV protective sealers are available in clear or incorporated into exterior stain.
II. In preparing to seal your deck you must first clean it. Dust and dirt can be removed simply by washing with soap and water. If some mold has accumulated on the surface of the deck then cleaning with a chlorine-based deck cleaner will be helpful. This cleaner will kill mold and to some degree remove the graying affect of the sun. Follow the instructions on the cleaner and, of course, allow to dry fully before administering a sealer or a stain.
One way to check if your sealer is functioning properly is to apply water to your deck with a hose. If the sealer is in good shape the water should bead up on the surface. The fact that water cannot penetrate the sealer also means it is impenetrable to the sun's rays.
A pressure treated deck should give you years of pleasure and function. Make that little effort at the beginning of each season to insure that your deck will look as good as it does right now.
For those of you who have questions in reference to applications or quality sealers, Pioneer has put together a nice package that contains it all. Just ask the next time you visit.
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